How to Do Comb Coils With a Tail Comb

Comb coils are small, springy spirals made by twirling a section of damp, product-coated hair around the teeth of a fine comb from root to tip. To make one, part off a small square, apply gel or cream, place the comb at the root with the teeth through the hair, and rotate the comb in one direction while drawing it slowly down to the ends. The section winds into a coil that holds its shape as it dries. They suit short to medium natural hair with a tight curl or coil pattern.

What are comb coils?

A comb coil is a single cylindrical curl formed from one section of hair, all wound the same way. A full head is made up of dozens of them in neat rows. They are worn as a style in their own right, used to define the natural curl pattern, and often used as a starting method for locs.

What do you need?

• A rat tail comb with fine teeth, or a coiling comb
• Sectioning clips
• A spray bottle of water
• Leave-in conditioner
• A gel, curling custard or twisting cream with hold
• A hooded dryer or time to air dry

How do you prepare the hair?

1. Wash and condition. Coils form best on clean hair.
2. Detangle thoroughly while the conditioner is in.
3. Keep the hair damp. Not dripping, but wet enough that it is pliable.
4. Apply leave-in conditioner through the whole head.
5. Section into four quarters and clip three of them away.

How to make a comb coil, step by step

1. Part off a small square at the nape with the tail of the comb. About one to two centimeters across is typical.
2. Apply gel or cream to the section from root to tip.
3. Comb it through once so the hairs lie together.
4. Place the comb at the root, with the teeth through the section and the spine of the comb close to the scalp.
5. Turn the comb between your fingers in one direction, usually clockwise, so the hair wraps around the teeth.
6. Keep turning as you glide the comb down toward the ends. The hair should spiral off the comb as a coil.
7. Finish the tip by twirling it around your finger so it is sealed.
8. Leave the coil alone and move to the next section. Always turn in the same direction.

How do size and direction change the look?

A set with a tail comb and a coiler

The Uexim 5-piece hair styling comb set includes a pointed tail comb, a dual-head eyebrow brush and a triple-row hair coiler, in a five-piece set described as suitable for braiding and everyday styling. The pieces are plastic and the set comes in pink.

How do you dry comb coils?

• Do not touch them while they are wet. Handling causes frizz and unravels the coil.
• Sit under a hooded dryer on low to medium heat if you have one. It sets the coils faster and more firmly.
• Or air dry fully. This can take several hours, depending on length and product.
• Do not sleep on wet coils. Start early enough in the day for them to dry.

How do you make them last?

• Sleep in a satin bonnet or on a satin pillowcase.
• Keep your hands out of them.
• Mist lightly with water or a diluted leave-in if they look dry. Do not soak them.
• Apply a small amount of light oil to the scalp when needed.
• Re-coil individual sections that loosen, instead of redoing the whole head.

With care, coils commonly last one to two weeks, though this varies with hair texture and length.

Common problems and fixes

• Coils unravel. The hair was too dry, there was too little hold, or the section was too large. Re-wet, add product and take smaller sections.
• Frizzy coils. The section was not smoothed before coiling, or it was touched while drying.
• White residue. Too much product, or products that do not mix well. Use less, and test a new combination on the back of your hand first.
• Uneven coils. Section sizes vary. Measure each against the one beside it.
• The comb snags. Detangle the section again and keep it wet.

Comb coils, finger coils or a twist sponge?

• Comb coils: the neatest and most uniform. Good for very short hair that is hard to grip with fingers.
• Finger coils: the same idea without a tool. Softer, and easier on longer hair.
• Twist sponge: the fastest, for short hair. Gives a looser, less uniform texture.

Frequently asked questions

How long does hair need to be for comb coils?

Around two to three centimeters is enough to start. They are well suited to short hair.

Do comb coils work on all hair types?

They hold best on tightly curled and coily hair. Looser curl patterns tend to unravel.

How long does a full head take?

Often one to three hours, depending on section size and how much hair there is.

Can I wash my hair with coils in?

Washing loosens them. If you want to keep the style, cleanse the scalp gently and expect to redo some coils.

The bottom line

Damp hair, small even sections, a product with hold, and a comb turned steadily in one direction from root to tip. Then leave the coils alone until they are completely dry.