Heatless Curls on Thick Hair: How to Section and Secure

Heatless curls work on thick hair when you solve two problems: drying and holding. Thick hair has more strands in every wrap, so it dries slowly and its weight unwinds the rod. Start with hair that is almost dry, split each side into more and smaller sections, wrap in thin flat layers, and secure the rod at three points instead of one. A cap or bonnet over the top keeps everything in place overnight.

Why is thick hair harder?

• It holds more water. A thick wrap can still be damp in the middle after eight hours, and damp hair does not hold a curl.
• It is heavy. The weight pulls the rod down and loosens the wrap.
• It fills the rod quickly. There is more hair than rod, so wraps pile on top of each other.
• It resists the shape. Coarse strands need more time to set.

Thick-hair adjustments at a glance

How to section thick hair

1. Part down the center from forehead to nape.
2. Split each side into an upper and a lower layer with a horizontal parting at about ear level. Clip the upper layers up.
3. Within each layer, plan thin vertical slices, about two centimeters wide.

With one rod, you will feed the lower layer onto the rod first, then the upper layer on top of it, each in thin slices. With two rods, wrap the lower layer on one and the upper on the other.

How to wrap, step by step

1. Set the rod over your head and clip it firmly at the crown.
2. On one side, take the first thin slice from the front of the lower layer.
3. Spread it flat, like a ribbon, and wrap it over the rod and away from your face.
4. Add the next thin slice, joining it to the tail of the first, and wrap again beside the last turn, not on top of it.
5. Continue until the lower layer is on the rod.
6. Let down the upper layer and repeat, continuing down the rod.
7. Keep the tension even: snug enough to stay, loose enough to be comfortable.
8. Repeat on the other side.

How to secure it so it does not unwind

• Anchor the top. Use the clip at the crown. On very heavy hair, add a second clip a little further forward.
• Tie at mid-length. Put a soft scrunchie around the hair and rod halfway down each side.
• Tie the ends with a second scrunchie, with the tips tucked in.
• Join the two ends of the rod at the back or on top, so the weight is shared.
• Cover everything with a cap or bonnet. It stops the wraps shifting as you move.

A rod with cap and clip options

The Uexim heatless curling rod headband is a foam curling rod headband for setting curls overnight without heat, available with a matching night cap or with clips, depending on the option you choose. It is described as suitable for long hair and comes in black, pink and wine red. Check the variant to see whether it includes the cap, the clips or neither.

How do you make sure it dries?

• Start drier than you think you need. If in doubt, blow-dry a little more before wrapping.
• Wrap in thin, spread-out layers so air can get in.
• Use a light mousse, not a heavy cream. Thick products slow drying.
• Give it ten minutes of cool or low air from a hair dryer over the wrapped hair before bed, if your hair is very dense.
• Test before unwrapping. Press a wrap between your fingers. If it feels cool or damp, leave it longer or use the dryer.

Taking it out

1. Remove the cap and ties.
2. Unwind from the bottom, one layer at a time. Do not pull the rod straight out.
3. Let the curls cool and settle.
4. Separate with your fingers and shake at the roots.
5. Finish with a light hairspray. A drop of serum on the ends controls frizz.

What result should you expect?

Thick hair usually gives full, voluminous waves or large curls. The weight of the hair relaxes them through the day, so wrap a little tighter than the look you want. If you want smaller, more defined curls, use two rods or several short rods with smaller sections.

Common mistakes

• Wrapping hair that is too damp. The most common reason thick hair fails to set.
• Thick sections. The inside never dries.
• Stacking wraps on top of each other.
• Securing only the ends. The top unwinds.
• Wrapping very tightly to compensate. It pulls at the scalp and causes headaches.

Frequently asked questions

Is one rod enough for thick hair?

It can be, if the rod is long and you wrap in thin layers. Two rods make it easier.

Should thick hair be wet or dry for heatless curls?

Almost dry. A light mist over dry hair is often best.

How long do I need to leave it in?

Until it is completely dry, which usually means overnight.

Why did only the outside layer curl?

The sections were too thick. The inner hair was neither close to the rod nor dry.

The bottom line

Start nearly dry, slice thin, wrap flat, and secure at the top, the middle and the ends under a cap. Thick hair sets well once it can dry and cannot unwind.