To use thinning shears on thick hair, work on dry hair, take a section about five centimeters wide, and make one or two snips in the middle to lower part of the section, never at the roots. Then comb out the cut hair and check before doing more. Thinning shears remove a portion of the hair with each close, so bulk comes out quickly. The golden rule is to cut less than you think you need.
What are thinning shears?
Thinning shears look like scissors, but one blade has a row of teeth with gaps between them. When you close them on a section, the teeth hold some hairs to be cut and let the rest slip through the gaps. The result is a section that keeps its length but has less density. They are used to reduce bulk, soften heavy or blunt lines, and blend one length into another.
What do the numbers mean?
| Feature | What it tells you |
|---|---|
| Tooth count | How many teeth the notched blade has. Shears in the mid to high twenties are a common all-round choice for blending and general thinning |
| Size in inches | Overall length. Around 6 inches suits most hands |
| Steel | The blade material. Stainless steel resists rust with normal care |
Before you start
- Dry, clean, styled hair. Thin hair in the state you normally wear it. Wet hair hides how much bulk there really is.
- Detangle. A smooth section cuts evenly.
- Have clips, a comb and two mirrors ready, so you can see the back.
- Decide where the bulk is. For most thick hair it sits at the sides and the back, from the ears down. The top layer and the hairline should usually be left alone.
How to thin thick hair, step by step
- Section. Clip the top layer of your hair up and out of the way. This layer stays untouched and covers the thinned hair underneath.
- Take a section from underneath, about five centimeters wide and a centimeter or so thick. Comb it smooth and hold it out from the head between two fingers.
- Position the shears at least halfway down the section. Stay well away from the roots: hair thinned near the scalp sticks up as it grows.
- Angle the shears. Hold them diagonally or vertically to the section, not straight across, for a softer result.
- Close once, fully. Open the shears, then slide them out. Do not pull them through closed.
- Comb through to remove the cut hairs and look at the section.
- Add a second snip only if needed, a few centimeters lower down the section, not in the same place.
- Move to the next section and repeat with the same number of snips, so both sides match.
- Let the top layer down, comb everything and judge the overall shape before deciding whether to do more.
Where should you not use thinning shears?
- At the roots. Short hairs there push the hair above them outward and add volume instead of removing it.
- On the top layer or parting. Shorter hairs on the surface show as flyaways.
- Along the hairline. It thins quickly and is very visible.
- On the very ends, repeatedly. Over-thinned ends look wispy.
- On curly hair without advice. Thinning can disrupt curl clumps and increase frizz. A stylist who works with curls is the safer route.
A pair for home use
The Uexim stainless steel thinning shears have a 28-tooth thinning blade, with blades and handles in stainless steel (6Cr13). They are 6 inches in size with a total length of 17 cm. The listing describes them as suitable for hairdressing and for dog grooming.
How do you look after thinning shears?
- Wipe the blades clean and dry after each use.
- Put a drop of scissor oil at the pivot from time to time and open and close them a few times.
- Store them closed, in a case or pouch, so the teeth are protected.
- Use them only on hair. Paper and fabric blunt the edge.
- If you also use a pair on a pet, keep a separate pair for that and clean it well.
What if you take too much?
Stop cutting. Thinned hair cannot be put back, and more cutting will not even it out. Style with a little smoothing cream to settle shorter hairs, and give it time to grow. If the shape looks uneven, a hairdresser can blend it.
Frequently asked questions
How often should thick hair be thinned?
Only when the bulk returns, typically every couple of months, around the time of a haircut.
Should hair be wet or dry?
Dry is safer for home use, because you see the result as you go.
Do thinning shears cause frizz?
They can if they are used too close to the roots, on the top layer, or too heavily. Used mid-length on the underneath layers, they should not.
Can I use thinning shears to cut length?
No. They are for removing density and softening lines. Use regular cutting scissors for length.
The bottom line
Thin dry hair, underneath layers only, mid-lengths down, one snip at a time, and comb and check between each. With thinning shears, restraint is the technique.
0 comments