Should You Brush Curly Hair Wet or Dry?

Brush curly hair when it is wet and coated in conditioner, not when it is dry. Wet curls with conditioner have slip, so a brush or comb can pass through and tangles come out without tearing the curl pattern apart. Dry brushing separates each curl into individual strands, which is what causes the wide, frizzy shape most people with curls want to avoid. There are a few exceptions, covered below.

Why does dry brushing cause frizz?

A curl is a group of strands that have dried together in the same spiral. That grouping, often called a clump, is what makes a curl look defined. A brush pulled through dry curls splits every clump into its separate hairs. Each hair still wants to curl, but now on its own, so the result is volume without definition. Dry curly hair also has more friction between strands, so brushing takes more force and breaks more hair.

Wet vs dry brushing for curls

Is wet hair not more fragile?

It is. Wet hair stretches more easily and can be damaged if it is pulled hard. That is why the rule for curls is not simply wet, but wet with plenty of conditioner, a flexible tool and a gentle method. Conditioner lowers the friction so the brush glides instead of pulling. Under those conditions, detangling wet is kinder to curls than forcing a brush through them dry.

How to detangle curly hair wet, step by step

1. Soak the hair in the shower.
2. Apply a generous amount of conditioner from the mid-lengths to the ends.
3. Separate the worst knots with your fingers first.
4. Work in sections. Four is a good start. Use more for dense hair.
5. Start at the ends. Hold the section above where you are working and brush the last few centimeters.
6. Move upward in stages until the brush passes freely from roots to ends.
7. Add water or conditioner to any section that starts to drag.
8. Rinse, or leave some conditioner in if that suits your hair, then apply your styler.
9. Do not brush again once the curls start to dry.

Which tool should you use?

• Fingers: the gentlest option and the best first pass.
• Wide-tooth comb: low tension, keeps clumps together.
• A brush designed for wet and curly hair: flexible, spaced bristles that bend at knots. Faster on thick curls.

Avoid dense, stiff brushes and fine-tooth combs on curls, wet or dry.

The Uexim scalp massage detangling brush for wet and curly hair is designed to detangle wet and curly hair and has scalp massage bristles. It is made of plastic, comes in a range of colors including blue, orange, white, pink, purple, red and golden, and is described as suitable for salon and home use. One brush is included.

When is it fine to brush curly hair dry?

• Just before washing. A gentle detangle before you get in the shower loosens shed hairs, and any frizz is washed out.
• When you want a brushed-out look. Soft, voluminous, fluffy curls or a retro wave are created by brushing dry curls on purpose.
• Before braiding or a sleek updo, where definition does not matter.
• Before heat straightening, on hair that has been blow-dried.
• At the scalp only, to lift the roots with a pick without touching the lengths.

If you do brush dry, add a little leave-in or oil for slip, work in sections and start from the ends.

How do you refresh curls between washes without brushing?

1. Mist the hair with water until it is damp.
2. Smooth a little leave-in or curl cream over frizzy areas.
3. Reshape individual curls by twirling them around a finger.
4. Scrunch and let them dry.

How often should curly hair be detangled?

For most people, on wash days. That might be every two to four days for waves and looser curls, and weekly for tighter curls and coils. Detangling more often than you wash is rarely needed if you protect your hair at night with a loose pineapple, a braid or a satin bonnet.

Frequently asked questions

Should I brush curly hair in the shower?

Yes. With conditioner in is the ideal moment.

Does this apply to wavy hair?

Mostly. Waves are less prone to frizz than tight curls, but they also keep their pattern better when detangled wet.

What about coily hair?

Detangle wet or very damp with a lot of conditioner, in small sections, starting with fingers. Many people find coils do best with a wide-tooth comb.

Why is there so much hair in my brush on wash day?

Curls hold on to hairs that have already shed naturally. They come out together when you detangle, which looks like a lot but is usually normal.

The bottom line

Detangle curls wet, with conditioner, from the ends up, using fingers, a wide-tooth comb or a brush made for wet curls. Keep dry brushing for the times when you want the brushed-out look.