To diffuse curly hair, apply your styling products to wet hair, set the dryer to low or medium heat and low speed, then cup sections of curls in the diffuser, lift them toward your scalp and hold still for 20 to 30 seconds before moving on. Do not rake the dryer around or touch your curls with your hands while they dry. Stop when your hair is about 80 to 90 percent dry and let the rest air dry.
What does a diffuser do?
A plain dryer nozzle sends out one fast, narrow stream of air. On curls, that stream blows the strands apart, and the result is frizz. A diffuser spreads the same air over a wide area so it reaches the hair gently and from many directions. Curls dry in the clumps they formed when wet, which is what gives definition.
What do you need?
- A hair dryer with adjustable heat and speed
- A diffuser that fits your dryer
- Leave-in conditioner or curl cream, and a gel or mousse if you like hold
- A microfiber towel or cotton T-shirt
- Clips for lifting the roots, if you want volume
Before you switch the dryer on
- Style on wet hair. Apply products while your hair is still very wet so curls clump together.
- Scrunch out excess water with a microfiber towel or T-shirt. Do not rub.
- Leave it alone for a few minutes. Letting curls set briefly before diffusing reduces frizz.
- Fit the diffuser firmly. Make sure it is secure on the dryer before you turn it on.
Which settings should you use?
| Setting | Recommended | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Heat | Low or medium | High heat dries the outside of curls too fast and roughens them |
| Speed | Low | Strong airflow breaks up curl clumps |
| Cool air | At the end | Helps set the shape |
How to diffuse, step by step
- Start by hovering. Hold the diffuser a few centimeters from your hair and move slowly around your head for a minute or two. This sets the outer layer without disturbing it.
- Tilt your head. Lean to one side or forward so the curls hang away from your scalp.
- Cup a section. Gather the ends of a section into the bowl of the diffuser.
- Lift to the scalp. Raise the diffuser until the curls are gently compressed against your head.
- Hold still. Keep it there for 20 to 30 seconds. Do not bounce or twist.
- Lower and move. If your dryer is easy to switch off, turn it off as you move to the next section so you do not blow curls about.
- Work around your head, tilting to the other side and forward.
- Dry the roots. For lift, tilt your head upside down and point the diffuser at the roots.
- Stop at 80 to 90 percent dry. Finish with a short blast of cool air and let the rest dry naturally.
- Break the cast. When your hair is completely dry, scrunch gently to soften any stiffness from gel.
Hover or cup: which method?
- Hover diffusing keeps the diffuser near the hair without touching it. It gives the most definition and the least frizz, with less volume.
- Cup diffusing lifts curls into the bowl. It adds volume and encourages tighter curls.
Most people do both: hover first, then cup.
A diffuser that fits over your dryer
If your dryer came without a diffuser, a cover-style one is a simple addition. The Uexim universal silicone hair dryer diffuser attachment is a silicone cover that fits over a hair dryer to spread the airflow when drying curly hair. It is lightweight, easy to store, and comes in black, green or purple. Dryer nozzles vary in size, so compare the product photos and details with your dryer before ordering.
Tips by curl type
- Waves. Use lighter products and more cupping to encourage the pattern. Diffuse upside down for lift.
- Curls. Hover first to lock in definition, then cup section by section.
- Coils. Use the lowest speed and focus on the roots. Stretching sections gently as they dry shows more length.
Mistakes that cause frizz
- Using high speed or high heat
- Moving the diffuser around constantly
- Touching or scrunching while hair is still damp
- Diffusing until hair is bone dry
- Applying products to hair that is only damp, so curls never clump
Frequently asked questions
How long does diffusing take?
Roughly 15 to 30 minutes, depending on length and thickness. Stopping at 80 to 90 percent dry shortens it.
Is diffusing better than air drying?
Diffusing is faster and usually gives more volume. Air drying involves no heat. Many people combine them.
Can you diffuse straight or wavy hair?
Yes. On wavy hair it brings out the wave. On straight hair it adds some body.
Does a diffuser fit any hair dryer?
Not always. Flexible cover-style diffusers fit a wider range of nozzle sizes than rigid ones, but check the fit for your dryer.
The bottom line
Low heat, low speed, hold still and hands off. Spread the air, let the curls set where they are, and stop a little before fully dry.
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