Use hot air to remove water and shape your hair, and use cold air at the end to set the shape. Heat makes hair flexible so it can be styled. Cool air firms it up in whatever position it is in when it cools, which helps a style hold and gives a smoother finish. The cool setting is not for drying hair from wet: it would take a very long time.
What does each setting actually do?
| Setting | What it does | Use it for |
|---|---|---|
| Hot air | Evaporates water quickly and softens the hair so it can be shaped | Drying, smoothing with a brush, building volume |
| Cold air | Cools the hair so the shape stays put | Setting each section, finishing, cooling the scalp |
Why does cool air help a style last?
Think of how a curl behaves on a roller. While hair is warm it bends easily. If you take the roller out while the hair is still warm, the curl relaxes. If you let it cool first, it holds. A blow-dry works the same way. A section that has been dried smooth around a brush and then cooled in place keeps its bend, lift or smoothness far better than one that is released hot.
When should you use hot air?
- Rough-drying. Take hair from wet to about 80 percent dry, moving the dryer constantly.
- Shaping with a brush. Direct the air down the hair from roots to ends as you pull the brush through.
- Adding lift. Dry the roots in the opposite direction to the way they will sit.
Keep the dryer moving and hold it several centimeters from your hair. Aiming hot air at one spot is what leaves hair feeling dry and rough.
When should you use cold air?
- After each brushed section. Keep the hair wrapped on the brush and give it a few seconds of cold air before releasing it.
- At the very end. Run cold air over your whole head, pointing the airflow downward, to settle flyaways.
- On curls and waves. Cool each curl in your hand or on the brush so it sets.
- On your fringe. Short hair around the face overheats quickly. Finish it with cool air.
- When your scalp feels hot. A short burst of cool air is more comfortable.
A simple blow-dry routine using both
- Towel-dry gently and apply heat protectant.
- Rough-dry with hot air until hair is mostly dry.
- Section your hair and clip the top layers up.
- Dry each section smooth with a brush and hot air, pointing the dryer down the hair.
- Before you release the brush, switch to cold air for five to ten seconds.
- Repeat on every section, then finish with cold air all over.
Can you dry your hair with cold air only?
You can, but it takes much longer, because cool air evaporates water slowly. Some people with fragile or very fine hair prefer it for that reason. A practical middle route is to use warm air until hair is nearly dry and then switch to cool for the last few minutes.
Does cold air make hair shinier?
Hair that has been dried smooth, with the air pointing down the strand, and then cooled in that position tends to lie flatter and look glossier. The technique does most of the work. Cool air helps by fixing the smooth result in place.
A dryer with both settings
The Uexim infrared negative ion hair dryer has hot and cold air settings, so you can dry and set with one tool. It uses infrared heating, and the listing describes negative ion output to help reduce static. It is a lightweight corded dryer with dual voltage (100 to 240V), sold with a choice of EU, US, UK or AU plug and in black, gray, silver or white. Choose the plug type that matches your sockets when you order.
Mistakes that undo a blow-dry
- Skipping the cool step. Styles drop sooner.
- Starting to style soaking-wet hair. It prolongs the time under heat. Rough-dry first.
- Pointing the air up the hair. This roughens the surface and causes frizz. Aim it downward.
- Holding the dryer still. Keep it moving.
- Touching hair while it is still warm. Let it cool before running your hands through it.
Frequently asked questions
What is the cool shot button for?
It sends a burst of unheated air to cool and set the section you have just styled.
Is cold air better for your hair than hot air?
Cool air puts less heat on your hair, but it dries slowly. Using warm air efficiently and finishing with cool is a sensible balance.
How long should you use cold air?
Five to ten seconds per section, until the hair no longer feels warm, plus a minute or so over the whole head at the end.
Should you use cold air on curly hair?
Yes. Cooling curls before you move them helps them keep their shape and reduces frizz.
The bottom line
Hot air dries and shapes. Cold air sets. Use them in that order, section by section, and your blow-dry will look smoother and last longer.
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