How to Use Lip Liner: Outline, Fill and Blend

Lip liner does three jobs: it defines the edge of the lips, it gives lipstick something to grip, and it stops color feathering into fine lines. To use it, outline the lips starting at the cupid's bow, fill in the whole lip lightly with the side of the pencil, and blend the line inward before applying lipstick or gloss. A sharp pencil and a light hand matter more than anything else.

What do you need?

  • A lip liner in a suitable shade
  • A sharpener
  • Lip balm
  • A lip brush or a clean fingertip for blending
  • Lipstick or gloss, optional

How do you choose a liner shade?

Goal Liner shade
Invisible definition under any lipstick Match your natural lip color
A clean edge for a bold lipstick Match the lipstick
Fuller-looking lips One shade deeper than the lipstick, blended inward
A soft, everyday nude A nude close to your skin's undertone, with balm or gloss on top
Liner worn alone Any shade you like as a lip color, filled in fully

How to line your lips, step by step

  1. Prep. Apply a thin layer of balm and let it sink in. Blot off any excess, since liner skips on a greasy surface.
  2. Sharpen the pencil to a point that is fine but not needle-sharp.
  3. Relax your mouth. Lips slightly parted, not stretched.
  4. Mark the cupid's bow. Draw a small V or a soft curve at the center of the top lip.
  5. Mark the center of the bottom lip with a short line.
  6. Line from each outer corner inward to meet your center marks, using short, feathery strokes instead of one long line. Stay on your natural lip line.
  7. Check that both sides match.
  8. Fill in. Turn the pencil on its side and shade lightly over the whole lip. This gives lipstick a base and means no ring is left when it wears off.
  9. Blend. Soften the line toward the center with a lip brush or fingertip.
  10. Apply lipstick or gloss, keeping it inside the line.
  11. Blot and reapply for longer wear.

How do you make lips look fuller?

  • Line just at the outer edge of your natural lip line, at the center of the top and bottom lips only. Return to the natural line as you reach the corners.
  • Keep any overlining to about a millimeter. More than that looks obvious.
  • Blend the liner inward, so there is a gradient from deeper edges to a lighter center.
  • Dab a lighter lipstick or a little gloss on the center of the bottom lip.

A set of six mattes

The Uexim 7-piece matte lip liner set includes six matte lip liners and a pencil sharpener. The listing describes the formula as long-lasting and waterproof. It comes in three shade families, Pink Rosy, Nude Brown and Nude Pink, and the listing advises using the liners within 18 months of opening. Six related shades let you match different lipsticks, or pair a deeper liner with a lighter one for a gradient.

Other ways to use lip liner

  • As a matte lipstick. Fill in the whole lip and press your lips together. Add balm on top if it feels dry.
  • As an ombre. Deeper liner at the edges, lighter liner or lipstick in the center, blended.
  • To correct asymmetry. Add a touch of width where one side is thinner.
  • Under gloss, to stop it sliding outside the lip line.

Common mistakes

  • A dark line with a pale lipstick and no blending. Blend, or pick a closer shade.
  • A blunt pencil. The line goes thick and uneven.
  • Stretching the lips into a smile while lining. The shape changes when you relax.
  • Lining only the edge. When lipstick fades, a ring is left behind.
  • Overlining at the corners.
  • Dry, flaky lips. Matte liner clings to flakes. Exfoliate gently and use balm first.

Care

  • Sharpen before each use for a clean point, which also refreshes the surface.
  • Clean the sharpener of shavings.
  • Cap pencils so they do not dry out or break.
  • If a pencil crumbles when sharpened, chill it in the fridge for ten minutes first.
  • Remove waterproof formulas with an oil-based or dual-phase remover.
  • Do not share lip products, and do not use them on broken skin or cold sores.

Frequently asked questions

Do I put lip liner on before or after lipstick?

Before. It defines the shape and gives the lipstick a base. You can tidy the edge again afterward.

Should lip liner be darker than lipstick?

The same shade or one shade deeper works best. Blend it so there is no visible line.

Can I wear lip liner without lipstick?

Yes. Fill in the whole lip and add balm or gloss.

Does lip liner stop lipstick bleeding?

It helps, by creating a barrier at the edge. Blotting and thin layers help too.

The bottom line

Mark the cupid's bow, line from the corners inward with short strokes, fill in the whole lip, and blend. A sharp pencil in the right shade does the rest.

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